Best buy ever! This is my first tablet and it took only about an hour to get used to it. Great stuff! It does everything you expect from a tablet, is very well build (quality-wise) and has a very ergonomic design. Looks good, too. Thumbs up!
When researching which tablet to choose I was unsure if M or L would be the best size. The downside of the L is, that you need to do big movements with your arm if you need to move the mouse-cursor from the lower-left to the upper-right corner (eg). The overall recommendation was to use big tablets for big screens. I did not regret to use the L-size.
On Friday there was a Nikon sponsored presentation of the new Nikon D3s at the Zuerich Zoo. Unfortunately there were too many attendees, so that the time for playing with the camera was very (very) limited.
Here is my first impression:
- just as good (build-wise) as any one-digit D-camera from Nikon (D1, D2, D3, …)
- all the features a D3 has
- High ISO is amazing, ISO 10,000 still looks good to me
- Movie quality is outstanding (compared to my consumer digicam)
For my studio strobes I use Skyport triggers (because they came with the Bx RI-strobes), but recently aquired a pair of Pocket Wizard Multimax-triggers (because of their range and ability to remote-control the camera). I wanted to find out what works best with the two Nikon SB-900 I use.
CLS is cool. It is quick, allows for fastest shutter speeds and you can control everything from your camera.
But it is not working for me. All those pre-flashes make my subject blink and I didn’t manage to get a decent portrait of any of my subjects. It might work fine for objects. This problem does not exist with the Pocket Wizards or Skyports.
This tutorial explains step-by-step how to create beautiful high dynamic range HDR-pictures using your digital camera, photomatix and photoshop.
I enjoy photography since I was in school but just recently discovered this as a hobby again. Coming from a tech background I enjoy doing the processing part of it as much as doing the pictures itself. In the past few years apparently all the technologies (HDR, stitching, etc.) grew from being toys to professional solutions.
The first useful tutorial I found on HDR was written by Trey Ratcliff who not only shoots on the best locations and has the best equipment, but also can prove that he knows his stuff by publishing many beautiful pictures on Flickr.
However, my workflow is slightly different, so i thought I give this tutorial a shot too.
Shooting
The biggest problem I have with high dynamic range (HDR)-pictures is that they are not sharp at 100%. If you take a high-res picture and downscale it on screen resolution it still looks great, but it’s not what I want. I shoot my pictures in either of the following ways, depending on the situation:
- ISO Auto: OFF
- Custom white balance (I use an Expodisc)
- A-Mode (M-Mode sometimes)
- After focussing lock (or switch auto-focus to manual)
- One RAW picture (call it pseudo-HDR if you like) or
- 9 RAWs (-4EV,-3EV,-2EV,-1EV,0EV,1EV,2EV,3EV,4EV)
In either case I convert RAW to JPG using Capture One which is my RAW converter of choise. If I only have one picture I create 5x JPGs for further processing (-2EV,-1EV,0EV,1EV,2EV).
If I shoot 9 pictures, I:
- use a tripod
- use interval shooting on a Nikon, so all 9 pictures are taken hands-free with no camera shake
- in rare situations I just use the bracket boost hand-held, but those pictures are usually not sharp enough. An example where it did work out nicely can be found here:
Basically if you only shoot one picture it will hopefully be sharp. If you shoot 9 with a tripod you have most flexibility and if you shoot the 9 hand-held you might be lucky, or not … Please note that your picture will have more noise if you only use one RAW-file.
Here is an example using one RAW file to create 5 JPGs:
I import my photos using Adobe Bridge and then process them in Capture One “to taste”. For HDR pictures I keep processing to a minimum. If I only have 1 RAW picture I create 4 more (5 total) variations using -2EV, -1EV, 0EV, 1EV and 2EV.
If I have enough RAW pictures I do nothing and process them directly in Photomatix.
Step 2: Photomatix
I was playing around with some other HDR tools too (e.g. Dynamic Photo HDR), but I like Photomatix most. I’m trying not to overdo HDR so that the pictures are still a little bit like the real world.
I select all pictures (9 RAWs or 5 JPGs) and drag and drop them to Photomatix. Generally speaking I prefer the look of my 5 pictures created by Capture One from one RAW-file over the pseudo-HDR look created by Photomatix if you only open one file.
Only for hand-held pictures I select to auto-align them by matching features, for everything else I de-select all tickmarks.
Once opened I move the sliders to taste. Usually I look at both extremes (all right, all left) and then move it until I like the preview. As mentioned I try not to overdo the effect.
Usually I only adjust the following values; the numbers in brackets are my starting points:
- Strength (95)
- Color Saturation (55) – a bit more than natural
- Luminosity (0)
- Light Smoothing (High)
On a regular basis I do not change any of the other parameters.
Last I click on processing and open the picture as a 8-bit TIFF in Photoshop.
Step 3: Photoshop
Camera Raw: Before opening the file in Photoshop I open it in Camera Raw to adjust white/black/gray-points and to straighten the picture.
Noise Ninja: Before doing anything else I run Noise Ninja (that’s why there was no need to reduce noise in Photomatix). I auto-profile the image and process. Usually I do this on a new layer (CTRL-J before running the plug-in). This is always my first step after opening the picture.
Masking: If you have moving objects in your picture you might want to remove the ghosts by opening the best (usually the 0EV) version of your picture, adding it to a separate layer and hide the ghosts. There are great tutorials on this. [link to be added]
LucisArt: I’m addicted. I think a little bit of LucisArt works wonders on all, not just HDR, pictures. However, I’m very conservative using it, so I only do very minor changes and usually mix it with the original image. Check this if you are interested in what LucisArt can do for even old and low-res pictures. Here is an example of a 5 year old picture with a point and shoot camera:
On non-HDR pictures I usually only use LucisArt 3 ED and I enhance the detail until Halo’s show up and then go back a little bit. On HDR pictures I use LucisArt 3 SE and use the Sculpture effect with minimum strength and a smooth detail of 11 as a starting point. Usually I mix it with the original image using a ratio of 30 (processed) : 70 (original).
Genuine Fractals: (optional) sometimes I upscale the picture, especially for Alamy I upscale to 5100 px on the longest side. This is always my last step in the workflow.
Photoframe: (optional) sometimes I add a frame. This is always the very last step, even after upscaling via Genuine Fractals.
Please note: This tutorial is work-in-progress, so I might update it on a regular basis if things change …
